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April 30, 2007


I moved Bodhran over to Guaymas today, but unfortunately they're still working on the travel lift so I won't be able to haul out until Wednesday. I spent the day taking all the sails, halyards and anything else that might suffer UV damage over the Summer.

This should be the end of the road for this year. Here's the final route on Google Maps

April 29, 2007

San Carlos

Bodhran anchored in San Carlos:

I've been sitting here at anchor in San Carlos (27°56’.41N, 111°03’.4 W) for the last few days after a beautiful night passage from Bahia Conception. It was sad to be making my last passage of the year, but the wind was a gentle 5-10 knots out of the east all night long allowing me to make 4-5 knots with the wind 60 degrees off the starboard bow. It was so pleasant that I stayed up almost all night just enjoying the ride.

Pleasant breeze for my last sail of the year:

My last sunset at sea for a while:

What the cabin looks like at night:

Chillin on deck making 4 knots:

I got into San Carlos about 10am, dropped the hook and took the bus into Guaymas to try and find the dry storage and my van. It's about 10 miles to Guaymas and as usual the bus system is a breeze and cost all of $.90 for the ride. Once I was in Guaymas, I had planned to take a taxi to the boat yard. This has always worked in the past, but to my surprise none of the cab drivers knew where the yard was. I had to track down an internet cafe and print off directions from the yard's website. Even with the directions and address, the cabbie didn't know where it was, but he drove me in the right direction and eventually we found it (27°53’.46N, 110°53’.27 W). I talked with Gabriel, the yard manager, who assured me that he be able to haul Bodhran either Monday or Wednesday so I'm still going to haul out in Guaymas instead of San Carlos. The yard is cheaper and I like the feel of it. It has showers, wi-fi and lets you work and live on your boat while it's there. I also paid the storage on the van and get it running. The van was a bit dusty from sitting in the dirt yard for 3 months, but it started right up and ran fine on the drive back over to San Carlos.

Landfall at San Carlos with the distinctive Tetas de Cabre:

Gabriel is supposed to email me tomorrow morning whether we'll be able to haul out Monday or Wednesday. Then it's a couple of days work decommissioning the boat and getting it ready for the hot summer. Temperatures get up over 120degrees, so everything that's sensitive to heat needs to be taken off the boat. You also get torrential rain storms, so you need to seal up the boat as best you can to keep it dry.

April 24, 2007

Google Earth

I was checking out Greg and Bonnie's blog this morning and had one of those DUH! moments. They always put their latitude and longitude with their posts so the folks following at home can look them up on Google Earth and get a nice satellite view of where they're at. I was talking with my mom last night and she and my dad were trying to figure out where I was at and the route I was taking. Well now it's easy. I added lats and longs to the last few post I put out and will try to always post coordinates with any future posts

April 23, 2007

Bahia Coyote

Howdy all, I didn't expect to get internet access until I got across to Guaymas (27°55’.21N, 110°53’.12 W) , but low and behold here I am anchored in Bahia Coyote (26°45’.39N, 111°53’.39 W) a little ways south of Mulege with a 4 bar wifi signal. Not too bad.

The anchorage at the north end of Bahia Coyote:

I left La Paz a little over a week ago in the company of Dave and Jan on Polar Bear. We made it all of 25 miles to Caleta Partida (24°31’.48N, 110°22’.41 W) and then hunkered down for a couple of days expecting some bad weather out of the north that never materialized. It certainly wasn't wasted time though. Dave's been filling in for Tate as my musical partner in crime and I spent most every evening over on Polar Bear singing away while Dave would accompany me on guitar or harmonica. We also took advantage one day and took a dingy ride through the pass between Isla's Partida and Espiritu Santo south for a couple of miles to the pinnacles. The back side of Espiritu Santo had some great geological formations, with layer upon layer exposed by erosion. The snorkeling was great at the pinnacles. Imagine enourmous granite pillars with perfectly square angels jutting up out of 15-20 foot deep water. Just swimming through the naturally angular channels was cool enough and then you throw in a whole bunch of cool tropical fish for good measure. Then it's back to Polar Bear for drinks and dinner. I know, I know, it's a rough life.

Dolphin riding Bodhran's bow wave off Espiritu Santo:

Dave and some of the cool rock formations on the backside of Espiritu Santo:

Snorkeling around the pinnacles:

Squid in the shoal water between Islas Partida and Espiritu Santo:

Bodhran and Polar Bear anchored in Caleta Partida:

Polar Bear and Bodhran both left Caltea Partida on forecasted light southerlies and had a slow but peaceful spinnaker run up to Isla San Francisco (24°49’.10N, 110°34’.03 W) . Wouldn't you know it, but right after I got the anchor down, Mike off the Sea Bird came motoring by to see if I wanted to come to the beach bbq that night and maybe play a little music. Mike is Tate's old bird guiding roommate from Ecuador and the Sea Bird is the sister ship to the Sea Lion, the Linblad Expeditions ship that Tate and I met up with in Ensenada Grande back in January and played at their bbq. I told Mike that I'd be happy to play at the bbq, but he had to invite Dave and Jan to the party as well. I really can't play unaccompanied. So I got yet another night of free food and drinks sponsored by Linblad Expeditions only this time they sent me packing with about 20 pounds of leftovers.

Polar Bear anchored off Isla San Francisco:

I awoke the next morning to fresh southerlies and just had to take advantage of the wind to make some northing. I would have liked to explore Isla San Francisco some more, but there's always next year. I had a great sail north. Sailing around here is like sailing through the Grand Canyon with all the reds and golds of the mountains and mesas that run right up to the coast. The wind died in the mid afternoon and I motored through most of the night up to San Jauanico, a little ways north of Loreto. San Juanico (26°22’.03N, 111°25’.5 W) was a pretty anchorage and I met up with Mark and Isabelle off the Follie Deuce. Mark is thinking of sharing a ride with me from Guaymas as far as San Francisco and I was glad to catch back up with him. The next morning I found Brent and Annie off Progression anchored behind me. This was a bit of a shock. Progression was on O dock back in Bellingham with me 3 years ago before Brent and Annie took it south. Unfortunately Annie is having some health issues and they are sailing Progression down around Cabo and up to LA to truck it back to Bellingham. It was nice spending a couple of days with them in San Juanico, but I decided to take off and try and make a little more northing before crossing the Sea.

San Juanico:

Progression, my old dock mate from Bellingham:

I took off this morning from San Juanico set for Bahia Conception. The wind was light, the sun was up and I was motoring along at 6 knots thanks to KC cleaning my bottom back down on Isla Partida. It would have been nice to be sailing, but I couldn't have asked for a nicer day. I saw some amazing fish boils while rounding Punta Pulpito. The sardines are in and a school of Yellowtail were herding them into enormous balls which would come boiling to the surface trying to escape the hungry tuna only to find a flock of pelicans ready to scoop them up. Really an impressive sight. I got a couple of hours of sailing in around mid day, but motored most of the way up to Punta Conception and then down the Bay to Bahia Coyote on the west side of Bahia Conception. I'll see what Don has to say about the weather in the morning, but from here I can sail to Guaymas in either a northerly or a southerly so the next time it looks like there's going to be 24 hours of reasonable winds I'll be leaving here and making the 80 mile hop across the Sea.

Fish boil off Punta Pulpito

I finally got a jumping dolphin pic:

April 13, 2007

La Paz

Hanging out on Playa El Tecolote (24°20’.08N, 110°18’.54 W) :

I just put Jess in a cab for the airport, so once again I'm back to being a single hander. We've had a fun time the last few days in La Paz (24°09’.17N, 110°19’.42 W) walking around, doing the tourist thing and eating lots of tasty food. Yesterday we took the bus out to Playa El Tecelote for a day of snorkeling and hanging out at the beach. The snorkeling was no consolation for missing out on Los Islotes, but it was a lot of fun, and there was a great puffer fish with a psychotic smile that kept chasing Jess around.

Snorkeling in the beautiful clear water of El Tecolote:

Every body conscious woman in the world should own one of these shirts. It's impossible to imagine what the person underneath actually looks like:

I'm playing a set with Dave from Polar Bear at the Bay Fest music night tomorrow and then it's time to head north. We just finished up a week of freak southerlies which would have pushed me beautifully all the way up to Guaymas (27°55’.21N, 110°53’.12 W), but alas the wind has backed around out of the north again, so I may well be firing up the diesel for a good part of the trip.

April 10, 2007

Isla Partida

Bodhran sharing the fuel dock at Costa Baha with this dainty little vessel:

Jess flew in on Thursday and after a night of checking out La Paz and eating Mole at Tequilla's, we motored off on a windless morning for Ensenada Grande (24°33’.29N, 110°23’.59 W) on Isla Partida. The forecast was for no wind for an entire week, so the plan was to make tracks up to the north end of the islands to maximize the time we had to lie on the beach, soak up the sun, do a little hiking and go snorkeling with the sea lions at Los Islotes. The windless forecast held true the first day and we made Ensenada Grande with plenty of daylight to spare. Dave and Jan on Polar Bear passed us on the way up the islands and we found them along with Moon Hunter, Boreas, and Imani waiting for us in the anchorage. Naturally some aquatic volley ball and then a beach party ensued. The only problem was the lack of wood on the desert island. There was one stick on the beach which was burned in stages to stretch the pitiful little fire through the night. Still a good time was had by all with music provided by Dave, KC, Ryan and myself and smoked Jack Corval made in Bill's homemade folding smoker he brought to the beach with him. The night ended with a plan to get up the next morning and take one of the boats out to Los Islotes to go snorkeling.

Dave and Jan's Tayana 52 Polar Bear passing us on the way up to Ensenada Grande:

In the middle of the night the wind picked up out of the south, giving us a rolly evening. Unfortunately the wind continued in the morning shutting out Los Islotes and it's deep unprotected anchorage from us. So we spent the day reading, swimming and sailing the dinghy around. Of course the wind died in the afternoon when we were on the beach and it took us over an hour to sail the dink back out to Bodhran. The next few days were more of the same. Friends boats would come and go, we'd hang out all day and then go over to Polar Bear in the evening to play music and make plans to go out to Los Islotes. Every evening the wind would come up and every evening it would shift more and more out of the west making each night rollier than the last and whipping up a sea that shut the sea lion colony off from us. After 4 nights we'd had enough of the pitching and rolling and we decided to make tracks back to La Paz (24°09’.17N, 110°19’.42 W). We did get in a good hike up the canyon at the head of Ensenada Grande, but we never did get out to Los Islotes to snorkel with the sea lions.

Jess at the top of the canyon on Isla Partida:

Windy anchorage down the canyon with three boats leaving for Isla San Francisco:

Brian sailing in on Phoenix our last night in Ensenada Grande:

So now we're back in La Paz for another 3 days until Jess flys out on Friday. Polar Bear followed us back here, so I'm sure that the rest of the week will be well spent.

April 3, 2007

Phoenix under sail

My friend Jessica is coming in tomorrow. We'll probably be heading out into the islands for a week or so. So there won't be any updates for a little while. I just wanted to get a picture of the Phoenix under sail up on the sight. Brian and Ryan got Phoenix off the dock and put her to her paces short tacking up the channel and then weaved her through the anchorage showing off for all the folks that helped contribute to her restoration. It's amazing how good I feel when I see this boat go by. Brian still doesn't have a working engine, but the Phoenix sails well enough without one that he should be able to make it up to Gauymas to haul for the Summer.

Brian and Ryan sailing the Phoenix at hull speed in about 7 knots of wind:

April 1, 2007

Over 5000 miles so far

I was going back over my website today checking things out and I ran across Google Gmaps-pedometer. I went ahead and mapped out my travels so far and it came out to over 5000 miles this year. That's not including all the tacking and gybeing I had to do and how far offshore I actually went. I would guess that it's actually closer to 5500 miles actually sailed/motored. Anyway it's kind of a cool program. The maps for Mexico suck, but if you use the satellite you get a good view, except for some reason Isla Isabella doesn't show up on the satellite view. Here's a link to my route so far.

Also, we splashed down the Phoenix yesterday. Here's some more pics:

Brian on the Phoenix being picked up by the travel lift:

And Brian coming up from checking all the thru hulls to ensure Phoenix wouldn't sink back after having just risen from the ashes:

The dinghy brigade towing Phoenix away from the yard: