Jan 252014
 

The last update to this blog had Mélanie and I running for the safety of Nagaigai Creek as Cyclone Ian was heading our way. The forecast held true and Ian turned back towards Tonga sparing us, but hitting the Ha’apai group with 185mph winds.

While we were hiding out from Ian, Mélanie’s throat started hurting. She stayed on the boat while I explored the abandoned houses and copra drier back up behind the mangroves. Then, the day Ian started heading back towards Tonga, the left side of her throat was so swollen that she was having a hard time swallowing. We immediately pulled up the hook and took off for Taveuni 8 miles away.

There was still a big swell running up Somosomo strait being powered by Ian now 100 miles to the Southeast. We managed to find a marginal anchorage off Somosomo village, where we landed the dinghy and took a cab to the doctor. Fortunately we chose the private doctor over going to the hospital. We were in and out in 15 minutes flat. Turns out Mélanie had come down with the Mumps. They gave her antibiotics, but said that it was caused by a virus and that there was nothing they could do. All said and done for the doctors visit, antibiotics, and pain killers it came out to $75FJD ($40USD). Not bad for the private doctor without an appointment.

We got back to Bodhran and the wind was honking up the strait. We’d wanted to go back to Viani Bay, but instead were forced by the wind back to Nagaigai. We woke up early the next morning to make Viani and it’s good internet connection to watch the Seahawks take out the Saints in the NFC Divisional round of the playoffs.

We hung around Viani Bay for a few days, but Mélanie couldn’t go swimming or do anything fun, so we figured it was a good idea to head back to Savusavu. Mélanie could be close to a doctor if need be and I could take care of a nagging problem with my compression post under the mast. We took two days to get back motoring in the morning and then sailing as the wind picked up by mid day. We stopped over for the night at Fawn Harbor, but didn’t check the place out much.

Back in Savusavu, I went to work trying to find angle iron to shore up my compression post. The Downeast 32 was built with a pretty significant flaw. The compression post that supports the mast underneath the deck is half the width of the mast. Not a big deal if it was centered, but it’s located underneath the aft half of the mast. When the mast is loaded up, it compresses the deck in front of the post and causes the post to bend. The post had dealt with this for 34 years, but has been getting tired since I crossed the pacific back in 2008. I’ve tried various fixes since then trying to zero in on the problem, but now I believe that it’s the post itself that needs to be replaced and moved 5 inches foreward.

Instead of pulling the mast and replacing the post with an unseasoned piece of timber that I would find here in Savusavu, I decided to reinforce it with steel. I found two pieces of 5/16” thick 3×3” angle iron. Of course they were rusty as hell sitting in a yard by the beach. So I took 4 days to cut, clean, drill and paint the steel while I was waiting for the Seahawks/49er’s game.

Gameday came. I got a last coat of paint on the steel before the Broncos beat the Patriots. Then went to the yacht club to watch the big game on the big screen with a bunch of Seattle fans and one SF fan. It’s been great being able to follow the Seahawks on the internet all year, but it’s really special watching a big game like that at a bar with other people. I wish that I’d been at home to feel the energy in Seattle, but all the Facebook posts gave me a good idea of what it was like.

Once Seattle had secured their spot in the Super Bowl, it was time to get the angle iron installed. I got the rig loaded up, put the sails back on and everything looks good.

Mélanie and I got Bodhran provisioned up and decided it was time to go. We left Savusavu and made it all the way down to Cousteau Resort a whopping 4 miles down the peninsula. Mélanie has to be in internet range to skype and do some work right now, so we’re hanging out, anchored off Cousteau with 5 German and Austrian boats, getting some snorkeling in and waiting for the big game on February 2nd (3rd over here). Thought the big game doesn’t seem as big as the one against SF.

Jan 072014
 
Jan 022014
 

We pulled into Viani Bay on Christmas Day thinking that we’d celebrate the holiday with a snorkel and maybe some Fiji Gold. I’d picked an anchorage that looked like it had pretty good shelter from the south easterly winds. I couldn’t tell from the chart that there was a house right there, nor that the only place to drop the hook was about 150 feet from the beach right in front of that house. Indeed while we were looking for a place to drop the hook a respectable distance away, a very European looking Fijian man came out to the beach and directed us to the one good spot to anchor. Mélanie and I immediately dropped the skiff into the water and went ashore to say hi.

The man on the beach turned out to be Jack Fisher. I’d heard of Jack, as he is well know in the cruising community. He takes yachties out diving to all the good spots in the area at a dramatic discount over the local dive companies. The house belongs to his Aunt Francis and the whole Fisher and Evans clan was over for Christmas. Lunch was just about ready to be served. Our timing was impeccable and naturally we were invited.

I didn’t have my camera around for lunch. It consisted of an overwhelming spread of fish and curry dishes, boiled crabs, salads and of course cassava. I think that we each had 3 plates. Then it was time for desert and kava. Mélanie and I excused ourselves and went back to Bodhran to change out of our grubby sailing clothes and to grab the camera and instruments. We got back just in time to sit under the mango tree and get the party going.

I brought in a bunch of “pop-its” that I had left over from Diwali. The kids found it to be great fun exploding these on the back of their Uncle Johnny. Johnny is the definite black sheep of the family. Very entertaining, but he doesn’t work and spends a lot of his time scamming off everyone in the bay, so even Jack’s wife Sofie got into the game of blasting him with “pop-its.”

Went the sun got too low, we shifted from the mango tree to the almond tree for shade, but the grog party went on all night. We pulled into Viani Bay without expectation and ended up having a Christmas celebration that I’ll never forget and making lots of friends that we’ve been hanging out with for a week now.

We stayed in the anchorage off Francis’ house for 3 days. We’d go in for tea from time to time, but mostly we hung out on the boat with Jack and Sofie’s daughter Elizabeth and her husband Tukana. Tukes is the family’s singer and guitar player who takes Fijian culture very seriously. I left my spare guitar on the beach for him for the three days and you could hear it being played all day long. Naturally Tukana and I hit it off, but it was Elizabeth who adopted us. She came out and spent the better part of two days hanging out on Bodhran snorkeling, fishing and carrying on. She brought us out buckets full of hermit crabs for bait and even baited our hooks for us. Of course all the catch ended up going back to the house.

On the 4th morning, Tukana and Elizabeth were heading back across the bay to Jack’s house. Jack has a couple of moorings that he put in for yachties. We figured that would be a better place to hang out, so Tukes and Elizabeth came on board and drove us over. The next day we had a pizza party and then decided to go out trolling on the outer reef. Jack joined us on Bodhran and took the helm. We had three lines out, but didn’t get a single bite.

The next day we had Jack’s whole family out for a shopping run over to Taveuni. We were running a bit low on fresh stuff and wanted another try at a fish. The morning was flat calm. Jack took the helm and steered close to a number of bombies, but we still didn’t have any luck. We anchored off Waiyevo and took a cab to the MH in Somosomo to buy groceries. We had quite an entourage with us for whole shopping trip.

It took 3 trips in the dinghy to get the groceries and Fisher’s back on the boat. The wind was up and we sailed off the anchor. We had a rousing good sail with Jack steering the whole way back. The wind was blowing 15-20 knots slightly ahead of the beam as we blasted across Somosome Strait at almost 7 knots. Sofie would whoop with glee every time the boat heeled over. Still we had no bites until Mélanie pulled in the handline and found a small barracuda on the end. Once we were off Jack’s place we finally started the motor and picked up a mooring.

That was New Years Eve. Both Mélanie and I had been feeling sick for a few days. We wrestled with going into the village for New Years or not. Reluctantly I took the skiff in to tell Elizabeth that we were going to bail. She met me on the beach and immediately asked if we wanted to have Tukes and her back out on the boat for a tanoa or two. This seemed like a much better plan. As it turned out, the village New Years Eve celebration consisted of 2 hours of church until midnight. Mélanie and I were both pretty happy we missed that one.

The real party was on New Years Day. The tradition is to douse people with water or even better pick them up and throw them in the water. This helps wash away the old year and bring in the new. We missed the morning mass dunking of people on the beach, but went in for lunch. The massive lunch was followed with a procession from the neighboring village women. They came marching through the village wearing makeup and their sunday finest, banging on pots and pans. The women from this village then proceeded to douse them with buckets and pans of water, including one filled with curry stained dirty dishwater. Waste not, want not.

We then settled into the familiar kava/music session under a mango tree. Like so many other places that I go in Fiji, there were plenty of musicians, but no instruments. So my uke and two guitars were passed around until it was time for the women to all leave for their own wetting at the other village. A bunch set out on foot for the 2 mile walk. Mélanie joined the crew that went by boat a short time later. I thought it best to leave the women to their business and stick around the village with the fellas.

I moved from the kava session to the volleyball court. I got in 4 good games, winning two and losing two, but burned the crap out of my feet on the black sand. It was hot enough to give me blisters on both feet. I had to bow out of the volleyball game. It was OK, the fellas were more impressed with my camera skills than my skills on the court.

We left at sunset after a nice swim and freshwater shower. The forecast is for no wind for the foreseeable future, so my next blog post might be from Viani Bay as well.