So maybe I’m not giving American Samoa a fair break. If I’d pulled into this place on my way down from Hawaii, it might not be that bad. As it is I’ve been cruising through some truly beautiful parts of the Pacific for the last 8 years and Pago Pago just doesn’t hold up.
I’m anchored between the Starkist Tuna cannery on one side and a dilapidated wharf on the other. Big diesel generators run 24 hours a day. They’re right beside the anchorage of course. The harbor in Pago Pago is a stunning geographical formation. Imagine a lush volcanic crater stretching up 1000ft out of the crystal blue South Pacific. Now imagine that a quarter mile wide section of that crater fell away to allow boats in and out. That’s Pago Pago harbor. It’s beautifully protected. That’s why the US Navy came in here and took over the island. Then the tuna fleet came in when the Navy left. There’s no vestige of quaint Polynesia here. It’s American industry through and through.
The real problem is that I’m on a mission. I’m trying to make it 6000 miles back upwind to get to Seattle. I knocked out the leg with the worst contrary winds when I made it here from Fiji, but I was ready to keep on going. Eager to make my easting and the nudge my way back up into the northern hemisphere. Instead I had to deal with a faulty alternator that went out the night before I made it to Pago Pago.
American Samoa is just a bit too American. The fix for my alternator would have probably taken a few days at any sizable port in Fiji or Tonga. In American Samoa, there’s no one to fix it. It’s cheaper to order new parts from the states via USPS. I ordered a replacement alternator the day after I got in.
Through neglect from the company that I ordered my alternator from combined with the USPS sitting on my package for 5 days in Florida before it got trucked west, my alternator has been on it’s way for 20 days now and it’s still not here. I ordered it express and it should have been here in 3-5 days.
So instead of making a quick stop in Pago Pago and continuing on my way back home, my momentum has been broken. I spend my days doing little projects around the boat, playing guitar, going to McDonalds for internet and drinking sundowners with Phil, a young singlehander from Victoria who’ll be on his way down to Tonga soon. I want nothing more than to leave, but I’m stuck here in possibly the dirtiest harbor in the Pacific. Fetid water that I’m unwilling to swim in, daily rain that keeps my solar panels from keeping my batteries full, no shower facilities, and a sprawling un-walkable community that’s difficult to explore combine to make Pago Pago one of the least pleasant ports I’ve ever been to.
The reason to come here is supplies. If I were continuing on through the Pacific, this would be an amazing opportunity to stock up on American products at back home prices. The local hardware store is stocked with high quality tools that I couldn’t find and certainly couldn’t afford down in New Zealand. It was so beautiful that I almost cried when I walked into that store the first day.
The other big store here is the Cost-U-Less. A scaled down version of Costco, it’s gigantic by Pacific Island standards. I’m heading north and only need to stock up on snacks, meat and cheese. If I’d been heading back to Fiji, it’d have been a wonderful place to refresh my long term stores, but I’ve got a 30 day passage to make up to Hawaii. After that I won’t have to worry about provisions again, so the Cost-U-Less is a bit overkill for me.
Every evening since I arrived, the Samoans practice racing their Fautasis. A Fautasi is the largest racing canoe that I’ve seen in the Pacific. They vary in number of rowers. The largest have nearly fifty rowers, while the smallest sport closer to thirty. There’s are a total of 12 Fautasi representing different villages on the island.
Flag Day was on the 17th and the big Fautasi Race was the day before. The 12 gigantic canoes lined up out in the Pacific swell 7 miles away from the finish line which happened to be right off Bodhran. The crowd was lined up on the beach and listening to the action on the radio. I’d hear them erupt with applause. I’d then look around and couldn’t see anything. Then the crowd went wild as the the first Fautasi rounded the point escorted by two tugs, a fishing boat, a police boat and various official jet skis. It all came down to a photo finish with the home town Aeto team losing out by a nose.
The fautasi race is a big deal here. Here’s the prize payouts as listed by Samoa News: Total cash for the fautasi race was $74,000: with $20,000 to Manulele Tausala #1 – the winner; 2nd place $15,000 to Aeto; and 3rd place $10,000 to Paepaeulupo’o. Other prizes: $7,000 4th place; 5th place $6,000; 6th place $5,000; 7th place $4,000; 8th place $3,000; 9th place $2,000 and 10th place $2,000. I don’t know where all that money comes from, but a total of $202,000 was handed out in the various Flag Day events.
On Flag Day proper, Phil and I took a little hike up to some waterfalls we’d heard about. There was a series of 12 falls in all, but it was too slick to go beyond the second. It was glorious to get into the water after being trapped in Pago Pago harbor for so long. On the way back down we stumbled across some Flag Day BBQ action down on the beach where we finally got a little Samoan culture, hanging out until we took a late bus back to the boats.
There’s still no word on my alternator. I’m anxious to get a move on, but it may still not be for a while. Hopefully my part made it on Friday’s flight and will be sorted through the post office on Saturday, but I’m not getting my hopes up.